JONATHAN ANDERSON just held his first fashion show at Dior, unveiling a new direction for the storied French fashion house.
Held in the Tuileries Gardens in Paris, the Spring/Summer 2026 show marked Anderson’s first women’s collection since taking the creative reins in March, and it set a decisive tone for a new chapter at Dior.
The 41-year-old Northern Irish designer, best known for his avant-garde vision at Loewe, is also the son of former Irish rugby captain Willie Anderson.
The show opened with a short film by documentary filmmaker Adam Curtis, “Do You Dare to Enter the House of Dior”, blending vintage couture scenes with jarring pop culture references and horror-style cuts.
His reinterpretation of Dior’s iconic 1947 Bar jacket was a symbolic move, as the famously cinched-waist silhouette was deconstructed with added volume at the back and paired with pleated mini skirts in leather and denim.
It was a nod to Dior’s history, modernised with streetwise edge and androgynous flair.
“This was Dior you could wear in Dalston,” Anderson said backstage according to the Guardian, referencing the edgy London neighbourhood.
“Dior can be a bit sugary… I don’t mind a bit of camp, but I want to put the woman in the real world.”
The collection embodied contrasts: couture and casual, softness and structure, romance and irreverence.
In a historical homage, some models sported exaggerated tricorne hats and pannier-inspired skirts, echoing the opulence of Versailles with a modern twist.
Florals, long a Dior signature, were totally reimagined.
Shoes appeared as oversized petals, and embroidered forget-me-nots bloomed across soft tulle.
Celebrities including Jennifer Lawrence, Charlize Theron, Jimin, Jisoo, Jenna Ortega, and Willow Smith packed the front row, joined by French first ladies Brigitte Macron and Carla Bruni.
As the models took their final walk, the crowd rose in a rare standing ovation for the designer, who offered only a small bow before slipping backstage.
Simon Longland, fashion director at Harrods, called the presentation “a collection of contrasts” and praised it as a “powerful statement of intent” for Dior’s future.
According to RTE, Vogue editor Laura Ingham highlighted how Anderson’s surrealist touches were “infused with house codes: the matador, the medallion, the bar jacket, and the peplum.”
Anderson’s arrival comes at a critical time for luxury fashion, with the industry facing a global slowdown and rising pressure to evolve.