Though Jonathan Swift is believed by many to have said, “He was a brave man who first dared to eat oysters,” the quote predates Dublin’s good doctor by about one hundred years, and was most likely first uttered by James I of England (1566-1625) at a royally excessive sixteenth century banquet. But the Irish had discovered the pleasure of eating oysters long before his majesty ever slurped one of the succulent knobby mollusks.
About 8,000 years before, to be precise. Ireland’s Mesolithic people knew all about edible plants and roots, fruits, nuts and berries, and the seasonal movement of wild animals and fish. Evidence of their diet lies on the shores of what we know today as Sligo, where archaeological digs have unearthed blackened hearths with charred deer bones as well as huge waste heaps known as kitchen-middens that contain tons of cockle, mussel and oyster shells.
In early spring these prehistoric hunter-gatherers made camp along the many bays and inlets of Ireland’s coastline. They used long bone or wooden harpoons with tiny flint points to catch fish. They trapped sea birds and collected eggs from the nests. And they gathered the abundant harvest of shellfish, mollusks and seaweeds found just off shore.
Seafood has always been a key ingredient in the Irish diet. The pre-Christian Brehon Laws gave a recognized status to fishermen via the mur breatha (sea decisions) which safeguarded the rights of each clan to fish in their own territories. Throughout the following centuries, legendary stories of the saints’ lives emphasized the importance of seafood, especially for coastal and island dwellers. In one story, Saint Molua had cooked a fatted calf for Saint Maedoc, but was mortified when he discovered that his guest’s vows prevented him from eating meat. It was only a momentary problem, however. In the wink of an eye, Molua miraculously transformed the offending flesh into seafood.
In 1788, a priest in the Rosses, County Donegal, wrote: “Their shellfish they got in the following manner; the men went to the rocks with a hook tied to the end of a strong rod; and with that they pulled from under the rocks, as many crabs and lobsters as they wanted. For scallops and oysters, when the tide was out, the younger women waded into the sea where they knew the beds of such fish lay; some of them naked whilst some of them went in with their gowns tucked up about their waist; and by armfuls, brought to shore whatever number of scollops and oysters they thought requisite.”
Ireland’s native oyster, the flat-shelled Ostrea edulis, has always been abundant along the island’s western coast where there are immense natural feeding and breeding beds. In the 1840s, Clew Bay, County Mayo, contained such vast quantities of oysters that they were simply scooped from the sea with dredging ropes. But the major oyster center is Galway, where the tasty little morsels form such a vital part of the economy that an international festival celebrating their importance is sponsored every September to herald the beginning of oyster season.
It was during the sixteenth century that people started eating oysters only in months with the letter “R” in their spelling, believing that oysters were unwholesome during late spring and summer. Two elements combined to establish the custom that is still observed. During the spawning months, èèoyste a good bit of flavor, lending credence to the thought that they are not fit for eating. An even more serious reason for not eating oysters during the summer four centuries ago was that refrigeration was unknown, transportation of goods was deplorably slow, oysters spoiled quickly in hot weather and eating spoiled oysters was a guaranteed way to bring on a violent case of food poisoning. Today, summer harvesting of native Irish oysters is illegal for conservation reasons.
Ireland’s pristine seas are a perfect environment for oyster farming and the Pacific Gigas oyster with its frilly pearshaped shell is being cultivated with great success at a number of oyster farms. The largest and best known is Cuan Sea Fisheries in Whiterock Bay, County Down, which supplies fine quality oysters to both home and overseas markets. Since this “cupped” oyster does not experience a breeding season in cold waters, oysters can now be enjoyed in Ireland on any day spelled with a “D”!
When Shakespeare wrote “the world’s mine oyster” (The Merry Wives of Windsor), he was alluding to the fact that, as oysters produce priceless pearls, the world is a place from which to extract wealth. Though it’s possible you may find a pearl in your oyster some day, the real riches to be gained from the luscious mollusks lie in their nutritional value.
Oysters contain a potent cocktail of rare vitamins and minerals and have been acclaimed a cure or prescribed as a relief for many serious health problems. Oysters are high in calcium, niacin and iron, as well as being a good source of protein. Omega 3, a fatty acid present in oysters, lowers cholesterol levels. The amino acid Taurine helps lower blood pressure, ease arthritis and cure liver complaints. Oysters contain more phosphorous (“brain food”) than any other foodstuff, and they are high in zinc which is essential for healthy skin, a strong immune system, mental stability and sexual potency. Testament to the last fact is that Casanova reported kept himself in prime form by swallowing a minimum of fifty oysters a day!
The only cooking rule for oysters is: hardly cook them at all. The most popular way of eating oysters is to consume them raw on the half-shell just as they were eaten in Mesolithic times. The only thing that has changed is a modern selection of taste enhancing condiments such as a squeeze of lemon, a dash of cayenne pepper, sprinkle of freshly grated horseradish, and the nearly obligatory accompanying pints of Guinness.
Though the American poet Ogden Nash wrote, “I’d like to be an oyster, say, in August, June, July or May,” I’ll hold tight to my family’s tradition of preparing the first fall oyster stew. As we waited expectantly at the table, mother warmed the milk until it just began to sizzle. Then she slipped freshly shelled oysters with their salty sweet nectar into the pot, gently stirred them until their edges curled, and added a sizable chunk of butter. As the golden droplets began to spread across the surface, she ladled the stew into our warmed bowls, passed them round and we dipped our spoon into one of Ireland’s oldest and finest autumn taste treats. May you be so blessed in your home. Slainte!
General Guidelines: Live oysters are best fresh as possible and should be purchased from a store with good turnover. Reject those that do not have tightly closed shells or that don’t snap shut when tapped. The smaller oyster is (for its species) younger and more tender it will be. Fresh, shucked oysters are also available and should be plump, uniform in size, have good color, smell fresh, and be packaged in clear, not cloudy, oyster liquor. Live oysters should be covered with a damp towel and refrigerated with the larger shell down up to three days. The sooner they’re used, the better they’ll taste.
Angels on Horseback
- 24 shucked oysters with their liquor
- 24 rashers of Irish bacon
- Fresh lemon juice
- Freshly ground black pepper
Put the oysters in a pan with their liquor, bring to a boil over low heat, simmer very gently for 2 minutes, then drain. Sprinkle the oysters with a little lemon juice and freshly ground black pepper, then roll each one up in a rasher and thread on fine skewers. Broil until the bacon is crisp and sizzling, turning halfway through so both sides are cooked. Push off the skewered and serve on hot cocktail toothpicks. Makes four servings.
(Good Food from Ireland – Georgina Campbell)
Fried Oysters
- 24 shucked oysters
- 1 egg, beaten
- 1/4 cup milk
- salt & pepper
- 1 cup fine bread crumbs
- oil for cooking
- 4 french rolls
Place the oysters in a pot of boiling water and cook for three minutes. Remove, drain and dry the oysters. Beat the egg with the milk and season with salt and pepper. Dip each oyster into the egg mixture and roll in the bread crumbs. Heat fat to frying temperature in a skillet. Fry each oyster for a few minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Drain on an absorbent paper. Serve and split on toasted, crusty rolls. Makes 4 servings.
Editor’s Note: This article was originally published in the May/June 1995 issue of Irish America. ♦
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